Camel Safari from Sabuk Lodge, Northern Frontier District

Just a twenty minute hop west in Pete’s little yellow airplane takes us from Lewa Downs and the shoulder of Mt. Kenya to Sabuk and the rugged terrain on the edge of the Laikipia plateaux.  Sabuk is a beautiful little lodge perched on a steep hillside overlooking the Ewaso Niro river.  From here we started our camel safari with a three mile walk to the first camp.  A camel safari is a wonderful way to explore the bush at a completely different pace.  The camels carry our luggage, tents, kitchen, ice, food and booze.  In short, everything to make one comfortable in the heart of the bush.  There are a couple of riding camels in case anyone gets tired of walking and these carry our camera bags and refreshments for the walk while the main caravan takes a shortcut to camp to have it ready for our arrival.  Walking through the rocky hills and canyons in this part of Laikipia far away from roads and other signs of civilisation is quite magical.  

One can easily imagine that you are the first to pass this way, just as an explorer would have done a hundred years ago. Arriving in camp in the early evening to a cup of tea and then the first cold beer is very welcome after a few miles walking. Then a hot shower and dinner by candlelight with a fire and the sound of the river gurgling nearby. (or was it camels gurgling?).

Up early the next morning with hot tea and hot water for washing brought to the tent before a hearty breakfast and the start of the day’s walk.  We once again set off with our two riding camels, Rasto and Norogen ( which means ‘Hairy ears”) carrying our morning supplies of water and always ready to to carry passengers in case.  

As it turns out we do not need their services the whole safari but it is nice to have these noisy but stoic animals along on our trek, and useful to have them carry our daypacks to allow us more freedom of movement.  The country is dotted with rocky outcrops known as kopjes and we climbed up on one to scan the countryside around us for a pack of African Wilddog which have been seen in the area.  We don’t see the Wilddog but do see some elephants nearby and the views are fantastic. Around mid morning we approach the river and attempted to get the camels to cross.  They were most reluctant to get wet and we watched the handlers struggle with them for several minutes before they finally waded through.  Then it was our turn and the water was lovely and cool on our legs after the hot walk.  At about 11.00 as it was getting really hot we topped out on a ridge to see our second camp being set up below us in a bend of the river.  It was wonderful to have an ice cold drink in the shade of an acacia tree then a cold dip in the river before lunch and a relaxing afternoon fishing.

The tents we slept in on the camel safari have netting ceilings and if the sky is clear the flysheet is left off so you can lie in bed and look at the stars above before dropping off to sleep. The stars are so bright because there is no ambient light from cities or towns to pollute the darkness and it is a humbling but also exhilarating feeling to fall asleep beneath such a huge canopy of starlit sky.  The moon was scimitar thin and so set early on in the evening but it was fun to look at the shadows of the mountains and craters through the binoculars before it set.  As one falls asleep there is the constant sound of the river dropping through the rapids and pools and the constant sound of the camels as they peacefully browse and chew their cud.

We were awakened just after dawn by Tise, our guide, telling us that the Wilddog were on the opposite bank.  We hurried out of bed in our kikoys and pyjamas and sure enough there was the whole pack, 18 of them looking across at us. Tise explained that they often cross at this bend in the river and that we were blocking their way.  They stood for a few minutes then the alpha pair seemed to reach a silent consensus and they trotted downstream with the rest of the pack following. They padded down to the river swam across at a lower pool and then trotted up our side of the hill towards the top of the ridge and their breakfast. A pack this large will need to kill at least once a day to keep healthy and fit so the presence of these efficient carnivores can be quite devastating to an area.  For this reason they occupy a large territory and will hunt for a while in one area before moving onto a different part of the territory.  They are among the most endangered and rare of all the African mammals and so it was a real pleasure to get such a good sighting.  And before breakfast too!

This was our last camp on the camel safari and our morning hike took us full circle to Sabuk lodge.  

It was a wonderful two days out and we got to see some amazing stuff and then it is a treat to have a long soak in the swimming pool, a chilled glass of wine and another evening fishing below the lodge.  Tomorrow we head for the Mara and the masses of game but Sabuk has been a real gem and Matt and AC have been having some great laughs and fun on their honeymoon so far.

Last days at Lewa Wilderness

Yesterday evening we drove out on a game drive to look for the three cheetah brothers again.  The plan was to game drive out, enjoy a sun-downer somewhere and then do a night game drive back for dinner.  The trio of cheetah were still pretty full from their zebra from two days before and barely lifted their heads to look at us when we found them. So after a few minutes watching sleeping cats we carried on our way.  The evening light was fantastic and we enjoyed a variety of game across the wide central plain and took a short detour to visit the prehistoric stone tool site.  It is a wonderful feeling to hold an ancient hand axe in your hand and imagine the hands which crafted this beautiful tool and wonder at the kind of life he led. Our sun-downer was at the peak of an old volcanic cone with sweeping views across the plains towards the Ngare Ndare forest and the Borana escarpment.  While sipping gin and tonic we heard a series of warning barks coming up from some impala along the stream course below.  We tried to see through the binoculars what was alarming them but it was getting too dark by then.  We then heard some guinea fowl cackle their alarm cries and I decided to drive down to investigate.  Sure enough, as we reached the bottom of the hill we caught sight of a beautiful big male leopard in our spotlight.  We followed him for several minutes as he prowled along the track and then left him to darkness and his hunt once more.

This morning we drove out before breakfast and although it was quiet in terms of big game it was another of those beautiful Highland mornings with cool air and lovely warm light.  

We leave Lewa today for the next part of our adventure; a camel safari out of Sabuk lodge for two days.  I will be far away from this computer but will update the blog when we get back to civilisation again!

Christmas Honeymoon Safari, Lewa Downs, Laikipia

The Grevy zebra is a rare and endangered species which is endemic to just Northern Kenya and Southern Ethiopia.  Lewa Downs Conservancy is the home to the biggest single population in the world. The Grevy is distinguished from the Burchell’s or common zebra by its larger size and different stripe pattern. Large round ears like satellite dishes top their heads and it is amusing watching them rotate independently to pick up sounds around them. On one of our drives we found this large herd with the beautiful backdrop of hills in the background. 

One of the activities offered at Wilderness is horse back riding.  We took an early morning ride and managed to approach within ten feet of several giraffe who were completely unconcerned.  If we had attempted the same on foot we would have not got any closer than a hundred feet if we were lucky.  Over the years the giraffe and other game have become so habituated to the people on horses visiting them that they have  obviously decided that we are no threat on horseback.  We also saw a black rhino with a calf on our ride but wisely decided to give them a wide berth since a mother rhino can be a short tempered and intolerant animal.  

There is a family of Black Faced Vervet Monkeys who live in the valley around the lodge and they can keep one amused for hours watching them play, feed and socialise together.  This morning they spotted a leopard walking down the valley and started giving distinctive warning calls.  We took our binoculars and spotted the cat as he walked down the other side of the valley.  He had been calling most of the night and well into the morning so it was great to get a look at him as well.

 

Christmas Honeymoon Safari

Africa is full of contrasts, opposites and contradictions. There is ugliness and beauty, justice and oppression, wetlands in the heart of deserts, glaciers on the equator. One of the contrasts which always gets to me is the disparity between the rich and the poor. I take my guests to parts of Africa where nature and beauty are the norm and we are indulged with comforts which we take for granted such as running water and regular meals. We have always tried to put back as much as we can and Amanda and I support a project in this area in the hope that we can help some of these unfortunate people.

As we took off this morning on our flight to Lewa which is the first destination of Matt and A-C’s Honeymoon, we flew over Kibera slum where half a million souls live cheek by jowl on the outskirts of Nairobi. An hour later and we step off Pete’s little yellow airplane into Eden; lush grasslands, browsing elephants and tall acacias. It’s not fair, I know, but I am a lucky man.

Wilderness lodge on Lewa Downs Conservancy is owned by Will and Emma Craig and remains one of my favourite destinations in the North.  The ranch lies on a shoulder of Mt. Kenya and is home to one of the largest populations of Rhino in Kenya and the largest population of the rare Grevy zebra in the world.  Besides these two species there are many others which inhabit the area and help to make Lewa such a fantastic game conservancy. Wilderness Lodge overlooks a stream at the bottom of a steep sided valley and we took an afternoon walk to work out the kinks from long hours on aeroplanes. This is a view of the lodge from the other side of the valley just about where we had enjoyed watching a herd of elephants during lunch. Rakita was our walking guide and he is skilled at picking just the right trails to get close enough to observe the elephants without disturbing them or putting us at any kind of risk. It is great to get out on foot in the bush as one really feels more a part of the world rather than being an observer from a vehicle.

Early the following day we set out on a game drive in a clear, fresh highland morning. There is something about this time of day which I love, the fresh air, the promise of a new day the birds greeting the sun with a chorus of sound and the thrill of anticipation at what lies ahead. We were not disappointed when shortly into the drive we found a big bull White Rhino who was unhurriedly patrolling and marking his territory. The early light was great and Mt. Kenya looked close enough to reach out and touch.

Later we found the Three Brothers, Lewa’s famous trio of cheetah who had obviously eaten well the previous day as they were nursing huge bulging bellies. We learned that they had in fact killed a young zebra the evening before. These boys have held reign on the central plains of Lewa for about 12 years now and they are a formidable force; large and efficient, they are the stars of several documentaries by the BBC and Discovery Channel.

Last and certainly not least we came across a male Yellow neck Spurfowl singing his territorial claim from the top of an acacia tree just beside the road.  His song seemed to be a celebration of the rains and the return of food and plenty for a while. Lewa is vibrant with life, finally getting rains after a prolonged region wide drought which devastated East Africa. To look at it now you would never have guessed.

Trekking for gorillas

From one type of safari to another.  Many people often ask me if it is possible to visit the Great Apes from Kenya, Tanzania or any of the East African countries.  It is very easy to journey to either Rwanda or Uganda where one is able to visit these gentle giants.

 

Both countries allow an amazing insight into the lives and interactions of the highland gorilla.  Walking early in the morning through a damp forest, listening to the sounds overhead; of the birds and other small mammals.  Then suddenly a noise that seems different and a little scary at first.

You might find them sleepily interacting with the young.

Or perhaps in the canopy of the trees.

It is one of the most amazing experiences I have had so far.  Sitting close by and watching the gorillas is incredible!

 

What else to say other than one has to experience this once in ones life!!

The last days at Shompole

Ole Glas with some of his children

Most of my guests are curious about the local tribes and customs and welcome the chance to visit a homestead or village while they are on safari. Shompole is a community owned lodge and the local Masai benefit from much of the revenues brought by tourists staying there. I always enjoy going to visit a Masai elder, Ole Glas who has his Ingang (homestead) near the lodge. Over the years we have developed a good relationship and he always greets my guests with genuine warmth and hospitality.

Ole Glas's daughter with goat kid

Jonathan and Andi were also made welcome and quickly started making friends by taking pictures and then showing them the image on the camera. We were also shown inside one of the huts which was pretty dark and smokey and then posed with Ole Glas's senior wife outside.

Jonathan and Andi with Ole Glas's senior wife

The evening visit was fun but also a great eye opener to my guests who mentioned that if they had seen pictures of the Ingang and family they would have felt that they needed help to lift them out of the squalor and poverty. However, after visiting in person they realised that these people are happy and content with their lives and life style.

The following morning we visited the village and again were able to enjoy some time with the Masai and especially the kids who I reckon think of us like the circus arriving in town: 'Funny white folks with cameras and smiles who indulge the kids with laughter and some fun'

A young girl watches us as we explore the Masai village

As I said earlier, a great way to break the ice with the kids is to take their picture and then show it to them afterwards on the review screen. They cluster around pointing at their likeness and giggle with pleasure and wonder at the technical marvel of the camera. I sometimes bring back prints of these photos to give to my Masai friends and they are always really popular.

Looking at pictures with the kids in the village.

The week has gone so quickly and we have reached the last day of the safari. Jonathan and Andi are leaving tomorrow to Burundi for the next part of their adventure. Shompole was a wonderful relaxing interlude with stunning architecture, beautiful scenery, warm people and exciting wildlife. As we go our separate ways I hope that we see them back here on safari again sometime soon.

The view from Little Shompole down Africa's Great Rift Valley towards L. Natron and Ol Donyo Lengai.

Final hours in the Maasai Mara, then off to Shompole Lodge, Lake Magadi

Our last evening in the Mara gave us a amazing farewell gift!  We found a beautiful female leopard basking in the last of the sun on a termite mound.  We sat on top of the car and watched her carefully.  As the sun got lower in the sky the full moon rose behind her and after carefully scanning the surrounding area, she gracefully bounded off the mound and disappeared into the bush.

This morning we flew to Shompole Lodge, in Africa's Great Rift Valley.  We flew in a Cessna 206 owned by a friend of mine who's main job is crop dusting; with thousands of hours under his belt he is one of the most experienced and safest pilots I know!

This area is still suffering from the drought and you can see from the sunset that dust is in the air.  Our Maasai spotter, Ngatia, posed for us on a rock!

 

This morning, after a night filled with the roar of lion, we made our way off on a game drive and happily found the source of the noise!  This beautiful male lion is bigger than the Mara lion with a much darker mane and despite the drought he looks exceedingly healthy and fit.

It is too hot to do much during the heat of the day at Shompole Lodge!  Each room has its own 'cool pool' and what better way than to literally cool off than to make a big splash!

Maasai Mara day four, our final day!

We have seen several lionesses over the last three days, some with cubs and others in adult units.  One pair looked like they might be hiding cubs in a rocky area on the Talek river near camp and we visited them every day.

Yesterday evening we went out to see if we could find any male lion and we were successful....  A pair of magnificent lion with impressive manes were lying in the salient of land between Double Crossing.

They are the males from the Ol Kiombo pride and after spending time with them we went to watch some of the females who were checking out some zebra near by.

This morning we found a zebra carcass with the vultures feeding!

Although we did not see it we did hear that the three brother cheetah had finally made a kill and fed so we were glad that they had assuaged their hunger.  They will need to keep it up as times are tough for all the predators now that the migration has left the Mara!

We so often overlook the smaller aspects of the wild, this is a shame as there is a lot going on right under our noses and if you are tuned in you can be kept enthralled for hours at a time!  While we were watching the lionesses we found this beautiful dragon fly settled on a twig!

Early morning and sundown are almost the best times of the day; one bringing fresh light and promise of a new start, the other more relaxed and satisfied over a great days wildlife viewing.  Driving in the golden light with guests and a spotter are part of the magic on safari.

Maasai Mara day three

We found a pride of lion last evening and one can really tell how difficult it is for these majestic animals when the migration leaves.  There were seven cubs; usually during the cool evenings cubs get up and romp around and play, these cubs were too skinny and hungry to do much more than sleep.

The light in the Mara at the moment is really amazing with clear blue skies and beautiful cloud formations.  The short rains have cleaned the air so there is no haze or dust, and we can see for miles and miles.  This light is fabulous for photography especially for effects and atmosphere!

This morning we encountered a herd of giraffe sailing across the open plains in the most beautiful morning light.

We took the opportunity to get some fun photographs of Andi and Jonathan for a safari memento!

There are a lot of old buffalo herds around at the moment and these two oldies have huge horns.  They look rather like Hanging Judges with their wigs on just hoping for an excuse to charge!

Maasai Mara day two

 

After the great start yesterday who would have thought that things would only get better?  Last evening we decided to see the three cheetah brothers again and on the way there saw this lovely herd of elephant.   When we got to the cheetah they were still lying around so we opened a chilled bottle of white wine, sat on the roof of the car and enjoyed a sundowner!  As we settled in the cheetah got up and started to stalk a herd of zebra with a young foal.  They sprinted into the herd hoping to scatter the family and separate the foal but he stuck to his mother like glue and she was able to fend the cheetah off.  We went back to camp feeling very satisfied!

Early the next morning we were up at first light and shortly after the sun came up we found a beautiful female leopard walking back towards the Talek river after a night of hunting.  The morning sun shone off her coat and we stayed with her for several minutes before she disappeared into thick bush.

About half an hour later we came up with the three brothers again, almost seven kilometers away from where we had left them.  They had still not fed and as we came up to them they cantered off towards a mother topi and calf.  The topi out ran them and left them panting on the top of a ridge.

After breakfast we arrived back with the cheetah as they were setting off on a stalk for another mother and calf Topi unit.  We positioned the car and sat watching the slow and patient process. After an hour the cheetah had progressed by about 20 meters and we were getting hot under the sun.  However patience is a virtue and eventually the mother and calf started feeding their way towards where the cheetah were hunkered down in a patch of longer grass.  We waited with baited breath as they got closer and closer until it seemed that they should be standing on top of the cheetah!  Suddenly all hell broke loose as the cheetah made their charge, again hoping to panic the mother and calf into running in separate directions.  Again the topi pair stayed together at full pelt with the cheetah alongside them the calf bleating in fear and the mother firmly keeping herself between her baby and the predators. Eventually the cheetah gave up and panting hard they made their way right towards us and plonked down in the shade of our car!

Jonathan and Andi were delighted as you can see! What a first 24 hours for Jonathan and Andi’s first ever safari, I wonder what the next few days will bring?