Last days at Lewa Wilderness

Yesterday evening we drove out on a game drive to look for the three cheetah brothers again.  The plan was to game drive out, enjoy a sun-downer somewhere and then do a night game drive back for dinner.  The trio of cheetah were still pretty full from their zebra from two days before and barely lifted their heads to look at us when we found them. So after a few minutes watching sleeping cats we carried on our way.  The evening light was fantastic and we enjoyed a variety of game across the wide central plain and took a short detour to visit the prehistoric stone tool site.  It is a wonderful feeling to hold an ancient hand axe in your hand and imagine the hands which crafted this beautiful tool and wonder at the kind of life he led. Our sun-downer was at the peak of an old volcanic cone with sweeping views across the plains towards the Ngare Ndare forest and the Borana escarpment.  While sipping gin and tonic we heard a series of warning barks coming up from some impala along the stream course below.  We tried to see through the binoculars what was alarming them but it was getting too dark by then.  We then heard some guinea fowl cackle their alarm cries and I decided to drive down to investigate.  Sure enough, as we reached the bottom of the hill we caught sight of a beautiful big male leopard in our spotlight.  We followed him for several minutes as he prowled along the track and then left him to darkness and his hunt once more.

This morning we drove out before breakfast and although it was quiet in terms of big game it was another of those beautiful Highland mornings with cool air and lovely warm light.  

We leave Lewa today for the next part of our adventure; a camel safari out of Sabuk lodge for two days.  I will be far away from this computer but will update the blog when we get back to civilisation again!

Christmas Honeymoon Safari, Lewa Downs, Laikipia

The Grevy zebra is a rare and endangered species which is endemic to just Northern Kenya and Southern Ethiopia.  Lewa Downs Conservancy is the home to the biggest single population in the world. The Grevy is distinguished from the Burchell’s or common zebra by its larger size and different stripe pattern. Large round ears like satellite dishes top their heads and it is amusing watching them rotate independently to pick up sounds around them. On one of our drives we found this large herd with the beautiful backdrop of hills in the background. 

One of the activities offered at Wilderness is horse back riding.  We took an early morning ride and managed to approach within ten feet of several giraffe who were completely unconcerned.  If we had attempted the same on foot we would have not got any closer than a hundred feet if we were lucky.  Over the years the giraffe and other game have become so habituated to the people on horses visiting them that they have  obviously decided that we are no threat on horseback.  We also saw a black rhino with a calf on our ride but wisely decided to give them a wide berth since a mother rhino can be a short tempered and intolerant animal.  

There is a family of Black Faced Vervet Monkeys who live in the valley around the lodge and they can keep one amused for hours watching them play, feed and socialise together.  This morning they spotted a leopard walking down the valley and started giving distinctive warning calls.  We took our binoculars and spotted the cat as he walked down the other side of the valley.  He had been calling most of the night and well into the morning so it was great to get a look at him as well.

 

Christmas Honeymoon Safari

Africa is full of contrasts, opposites and contradictions. There is ugliness and beauty, justice and oppression, wetlands in the heart of deserts, glaciers on the equator. One of the contrasts which always gets to me is the disparity between the rich and the poor. I take my guests to parts of Africa where nature and beauty are the norm and we are indulged with comforts which we take for granted such as running water and regular meals. We have always tried to put back as much as we can and Amanda and I support a project in this area in the hope that we can help some of these unfortunate people.

As we took off this morning on our flight to Lewa which is the first destination of Matt and A-C’s Honeymoon, we flew over Kibera slum where half a million souls live cheek by jowl on the outskirts of Nairobi. An hour later and we step off Pete’s little yellow airplane into Eden; lush grasslands, browsing elephants and tall acacias. It’s not fair, I know, but I am a lucky man.

Wilderness lodge on Lewa Downs Conservancy is owned by Will and Emma Craig and remains one of my favourite destinations in the North.  The ranch lies on a shoulder of Mt. Kenya and is home to one of the largest populations of Rhino in Kenya and the largest population of the rare Grevy zebra in the world.  Besides these two species there are many others which inhabit the area and help to make Lewa such a fantastic game conservancy. Wilderness Lodge overlooks a stream at the bottom of a steep sided valley and we took an afternoon walk to work out the kinks from long hours on aeroplanes. This is a view of the lodge from the other side of the valley just about where we had enjoyed watching a herd of elephants during lunch. Rakita was our walking guide and he is skilled at picking just the right trails to get close enough to observe the elephants without disturbing them or putting us at any kind of risk. It is great to get out on foot in the bush as one really feels more a part of the world rather than being an observer from a vehicle.

Early the following day we set out on a game drive in a clear, fresh highland morning. There is something about this time of day which I love, the fresh air, the promise of a new day the birds greeting the sun with a chorus of sound and the thrill of anticipation at what lies ahead. We were not disappointed when shortly into the drive we found a big bull White Rhino who was unhurriedly patrolling and marking his territory. The early light was great and Mt. Kenya looked close enough to reach out and touch.

Later we found the Three Brothers, Lewa’s famous trio of cheetah who had obviously eaten well the previous day as they were nursing huge bulging bellies. We learned that they had in fact killed a young zebra the evening before. These boys have held reign on the central plains of Lewa for about 12 years now and they are a formidable force; large and efficient, they are the stars of several documentaries by the BBC and Discovery Channel.

Last and certainly not least we came across a male Yellow neck Spurfowl singing his territorial claim from the top of an acacia tree just beside the road.  His song seemed to be a celebration of the rains and the return of food and plenty for a while. Lewa is vibrant with life, finally getting rains after a prolonged region wide drought which devastated East Africa. To look at it now you would never have guessed.

Trekking for gorillas

From one type of safari to another.  Many people often ask me if it is possible to visit the Great Apes from Kenya, Tanzania or any of the East African countries.  It is very easy to journey to either Rwanda or Uganda where one is able to visit these gentle giants.

 

Both countries allow an amazing insight into the lives and interactions of the highland gorilla.  Walking early in the morning through a damp forest, listening to the sounds overhead; of the birds and other small mammals.  Then suddenly a noise that seems different and a little scary at first.

You might find them sleepily interacting with the young.

Or perhaps in the canopy of the trees.

It is one of the most amazing experiences I have had so far.  Sitting close by and watching the gorillas is incredible!

 

What else to say other than one has to experience this once in ones life!!

The last days at Shompole

Ole Glas with some of his children

Most of my guests are curious about the local tribes and customs and welcome the chance to visit a homestead or village while they are on safari. Shompole is a community owned lodge and the local Masai benefit from much of the revenues brought by tourists staying there. I always enjoy going to visit a Masai elder, Ole Glas who has his Ingang (homestead) near the lodge. Over the years we have developed a good relationship and he always greets my guests with genuine warmth and hospitality.

Ole Glas's daughter with goat kid

Jonathan and Andi were also made welcome and quickly started making friends by taking pictures and then showing them the image on the camera. We were also shown inside one of the huts which was pretty dark and smokey and then posed with Ole Glas's senior wife outside.

Jonathan and Andi with Ole Glas's senior wife

The evening visit was fun but also a great eye opener to my guests who mentioned that if they had seen pictures of the Ingang and family they would have felt that they needed help to lift them out of the squalor and poverty. However, after visiting in person they realised that these people are happy and content with their lives and life style.

The following morning we visited the village and again were able to enjoy some time with the Masai and especially the kids who I reckon think of us like the circus arriving in town: 'Funny white folks with cameras and smiles who indulge the kids with laughter and some fun'

A young girl watches us as we explore the Masai village

As I said earlier, a great way to break the ice with the kids is to take their picture and then show it to them afterwards on the review screen. They cluster around pointing at their likeness and giggle with pleasure and wonder at the technical marvel of the camera. I sometimes bring back prints of these photos to give to my Masai friends and they are always really popular.

Looking at pictures with the kids in the village.

The week has gone so quickly and we have reached the last day of the safari. Jonathan and Andi are leaving tomorrow to Burundi for the next part of their adventure. Shompole was a wonderful relaxing interlude with stunning architecture, beautiful scenery, warm people and exciting wildlife. As we go our separate ways I hope that we see them back here on safari again sometime soon.

The view from Little Shompole down Africa's Great Rift Valley towards L. Natron and Ol Donyo Lengai.

Final hours in the Maasai Mara, then off to Shompole Lodge, Lake Magadi

Our last evening in the Mara gave us a amazing farewell gift!  We found a beautiful female leopard basking in the last of the sun on a termite mound.  We sat on top of the car and watched her carefully.  As the sun got lower in the sky the full moon rose behind her and after carefully scanning the surrounding area, she gracefully bounded off the mound and disappeared into the bush.

This morning we flew to Shompole Lodge, in Africa's Great Rift Valley.  We flew in a Cessna 206 owned by a friend of mine who's main job is crop dusting; with thousands of hours under his belt he is one of the most experienced and safest pilots I know!

This area is still suffering from the drought and you can see from the sunset that dust is in the air.  Our Maasai spotter, Ngatia, posed for us on a rock!

 

This morning, after a night filled with the roar of lion, we made our way off on a game drive and happily found the source of the noise!  This beautiful male lion is bigger than the Mara lion with a much darker mane and despite the drought he looks exceedingly healthy and fit.

It is too hot to do much during the heat of the day at Shompole Lodge!  Each room has its own 'cool pool' and what better way than to literally cool off than to make a big splash!

Maasai Mara day four, our final day!

We have seen several lionesses over the last three days, some with cubs and others in adult units.  One pair looked like they might be hiding cubs in a rocky area on the Talek river near camp and we visited them every day.

Yesterday evening we went out to see if we could find any male lion and we were successful....  A pair of magnificent lion with impressive manes were lying in the salient of land between Double Crossing.

They are the males from the Ol Kiombo pride and after spending time with them we went to watch some of the females who were checking out some zebra near by.

This morning we found a zebra carcass with the vultures feeding!

Although we did not see it we did hear that the three brother cheetah had finally made a kill and fed so we were glad that they had assuaged their hunger.  They will need to keep it up as times are tough for all the predators now that the migration has left the Mara!

We so often overlook the smaller aspects of the wild, this is a shame as there is a lot going on right under our noses and if you are tuned in you can be kept enthralled for hours at a time!  While we were watching the lionesses we found this beautiful dragon fly settled on a twig!

Early morning and sundown are almost the best times of the day; one bringing fresh light and promise of a new start, the other more relaxed and satisfied over a great days wildlife viewing.  Driving in the golden light with guests and a spotter are part of the magic on safari.