Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Tena Tena to Robins House - the wonderful Luangwa National Park

Our last destination was downstream from Tena Tena and on the other side of the Luangwa river. Simon drove us down to where they keep a boat which was poled across to the other side and we met with Kanga our guide from Nkwali, another one of Robin Pope’s lodges.  The drive south was filled with lion and lots of other game. We saw the Crawshay's zebra a sub species of the Burchell’s zebra and another first for me.
We stayed in Robin’s house which is perfect for a family with room for five and their own plunge pool, living room, kitchen and views over the river.
It is situated right next door to Nkwali Camp and could offer overflow accommodation if we came with larger parties.
Nkwali camp is beautifully designed with each of the rooms looking over the river and a central mess area built under the cool shade of a giant Natal Mahogany tree.  The horizon level pool offers cool relief after a game drive in the hot sun.
 We also had a look at Luangwa safari house which is a beautiful masterpiece of natural rock, thatch and imaginative architecture. While we were there at least three families of elephant came to drink and mud-bath in the lagoon in front of the house. One could easily forego the evening game drive and enjoy the elephant and other game coming into the waterhole from the comfort of the shade on the veranda. Big enough to accommodate a party of eight this is a real gem.
Our evening game drive took us across the river on a pontoon ferry which reminded me of crossing the Tana river in Kenya many years ago.  
The pontoon was just big enough for the Land rover and then our ferrymen hauled us across, hand over hand with the cable strung from one bank to the other. We found lion, leopard, hyena, genet cats, white tailed mongoose and lots of hippo. 
After the game drive we again crossed the river but this time in a boat at night and we couldn’t help thinking of the crocodiles we had seen earlier as we walked along the low bank to where the boat came to pick us up.  We arrived safely back to Robin’s house and during a delicious dinner under the stars we listened to leopard calling as well as lion and hippo. 
This was our last night in Zambia and we had great fun.  For me there was the added bonus of having Phoebe along and we really enjoyed each other’s company.  My thanks to Robin Pope safaris, Peter Jones and all the other people, hostesses, caterers, guides and managers who welcomed us to their camps with the warm hospitality which seems to be such a signature of Africa.

Zambia is a gem and I would heartily recommend a safari for those of you who enjoy the wilderness and wildlife and want to explore somewhere a little off the beaten track. I will certainly be back.

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